Thursday, 13 August 2009

Day 2: Skukuza

Tuesday 28th July 2009

We managed t0 prise Izzi out of bed slightly earlier on the second day, and set of for an early morning drive. We did see some wildlife, but not a great deal (thereby proving to Izzi that she could have stayed in bed after all). It was quite a good morning for birds: the crested francolin; red-billed hornbill (RBHB); korhaan (a small bustard); and a tree full of lappet-faced vultures. It's difficult not to think of Disney and The Jungle Book when it comes to vultures, with the resulting expectation they that they would, at some point, burst into song...




The korhaan wasn't the only animal to cause a traffic jam that morning. A giraffe and several impala were doing a fine job too; but everything cleared when we reached the zebra crossing (ducks and runs for cover at this point!). On a serious note, many of the larger animals were carrying oxpeckers, and there are two hitching a ride on this particular zebra.



A detour to a watering hole gave us our first sightings of water buck and wildebeest (in this case with a drongo in the background). We also got a better sighting of a steenbok, which is one of the smaller antelope and rather timid.



While driving on a dirt track through some trees, having seen very little for quite a while, there was an ear-splitting cry from my spouse: stop - there's a ****ing great big bird! The bird in question (subsequently known as an "FGBB" for obvious reasons) was, in fact, a ground hornbill. It's about the size of a turkey and, although it can fly, it's mainly a ground dweller. Ground hornbills tend to walk around in family groups (there were four in this case, including a juvenile) and it's clear from the way they behaved that people have fed them from cars in the past. Not the most attractive birds in the world, but full of character - plus they do have wonderful eye-lashes!



We had to change accommodation from a rondavel to a tent, so the afternoon was spent unpacking, shopping, playing on the internet, downloading pictures etc. before getting well wrapped up for our first night drive of the trip.



The night drive set off at dusk, and we were lucky enough to see a pair of marabou stork roosting in a tree (how anyone could ever have mistaken them for butter completely beats me). Despite being ugly and ungainly birds, there was something rather fascinating about the way they were silhouetted against the sunset.




We were then taken by the ranger to an area where he hoped there were some big cats, and indeed we were lucky. First came a leopard, walking by the side of the road, which turned out to be pretty well impossible to photograph (my excuse anyway, hence the poor example below). Then came what we'd all been waiting for: a small group of lion, lounging around doing very little close to a watering hole. They didn't seem remotely worried by the searchlights on the truck or the occasional burst of light from a flashgun. Like all cats, domestic or otherwise, they simply yawned and settled down for a long hard snooze.




We then startled a couple of hippo which had gone for a quiet drink, and watched them as they walked off into the night.



Apart from a scrub hare and a fleeting glimpse of a bush baby, we saw very little else that night: so much so that the ranger had to improvise and start telling us about the stars in the southern sky in order to fill the time! On the drive back to the camp, though, we came across a lone hyaena by the side of the road.



It was very cold by the time we got back, so we warmed up by having a braai (barbecue) while listening to the rather strange and menacing noises coming from the bush, just a few yards away.

Wednesday, 12 August 2009

Day 1: Skukuza, Afternoon and Evening

Monday 27th July 2009

After lunch of bacon and "eggmangle", Izzi made use of the Internet facilities in the camp while Harriet and I did some shopping and wandered around. We were staying in a rondavel (basic but comfortable) which had its own cleaning-brush tree and monkey-proof dustbin!




While having a cup of coffee, it was clear that some wildlife had made itself very much at home in the camp. In particular there was a colony of bats roosting in one of the outdoor eating areas, and the local bird population was quick to clean up any scraps left over by the human inhabitants.



We went out for another drive in the afternoon, which has become overcast, and ran into a troop of chacma baboons. They started off by having a good old grooming session by the side of the road (it was clear that one of the young males was enjoying it far too much - see below!) and then proceeded to cause a traffic jam over a bridge. Just when that particular blockage had cleared, a flock of helmeted guinea fowl took up the challenge...





The day ended with a sundowner - a cold beer, sipped while sitting on a bench watching the (relatively short) sunset. The building shown is the restaurant, although we had a take-away from the cafeteria next door instead of yet more "venison".

Day 1: Skukuza, Morning

Monday 27th July 2009

Being tired after the flight, it wasn't exactly an early start on our first full day in Kruger Park. The sun was well up by the time we set off, although it was still perishing cold (an excuse for us to go and buy a thick fleece each from the shop later). Our first encounter with "game" was a couple of rangers who were dragging something from the bush towards their car. It turned out to be the carcass of a hyaena, and they were trying to work out how it had died.



There followed a period where we started to see different animals, and this brought on that "kid in a sweetshop" feeling which doesn't seem to diminish with age. Inevitably the first sightings were of the common species: impala (aka "pala, pala, pala, pala"); yellow-billed hornbill (aka "YBHB", not to be confused with its red-billed cousin, the "RBHB"); glossy starling; zebra and giraffe. Less common (although only slightly) were the write rhino and steenbok.







By this time breakfast had turned into lunch, and we were all starving!

Tuesday, 11 August 2009

Journey to Kruger Park

Just got back from a two-week trip to South Africa. I'd hoped to be able to find internet connections while we were away, but they were few and far between (and very expensive). I'll try and keep the blog entries chronological, however, so that it's possible to pretend I'm still there rather than being stuck at home working! Here goes...


Saturday 25th July 2009

Set off from Harston on July 25th, arriving at Heathrow with lots of time to spare. We managed to get rid of our check-in baggage, but the security staff wouldn't let us through until a couple of hours before the flight. As a result we had no choice (according to Izzi) but to let her indulge in a Krispie Kreme Donut (sic). I wandered around taking a few pictures in terminal 3, after checking with the information desk that I wouldn't be arrested and deported as a potential terrorist for doing so!




Sunday 26th July 2009

After an uneventful flight, we arrived in Johannesburg early the following morning. After going through immigration (and having our temperatures checked by a thermal imaging camera in case we had swine flu) we collected our bags and checked into our connecting flight to Kruger Mpumalanga (a small airport close to Nelspruit). Plenty of time for breakfast at a rather nice coffee shop.



It turned out we had more time than we thought, as the aeroplane wouldn't start - literally! Three of the four engines started just fine, but the fourth refused to budge. Cue an annoucement over the intercom: we can't start the fourth engine, so we're going to switch everything off for a while to see if this fixes it. We all had visions of the pilot typing CTRL-ALT-DEL and hoping for the best! After a couple of futile attempts to start engine number four, we all got back on the bus and waited for "an engineer to fix it". We all froze in the departure area (the air conditioning was fully on, and all the employees were wearing fleeces and gloves) waiting for news. Below is a picture of the departure board we all stared at for three and a half hours...



...during which time I wandered around - to warm up, if nothing else. I was amused by the following poster in the lavatories. It took me a while to realise that it wasn't our old friend, the "say it with flowers" company!



In the end a new plane was put at our disposal, and we all traipsed back out onto the tarmac in order to thaw out. 40 minutes later we had landed at Nelspruit, and we were very soon loading our luggage into a Nissan X-Trail before setting off and getting lost in White River!

Being very late, we drove hell-for-leather to the closest Kruger Park gate (Numbi). There we were told that we would need to go to the Kruger gate, where we would be escorted (in the dark) to Skukuza camp, and charged a R200 fine into the bargain. We weren't the only latecomers, however, as can be seen from the picture below. If there was sound too, it would be possible to hear an elephant chomping its way through some trees less than a hundred yards away!



So, 30 hours after we left Cambridge, we arrived at our destination. Rather unexpectedly (for me at any rate) it was really cold, and we shivered in the restaurant while tucking into something which was rather loosely called "venison". Probably Kudu, Impala, Nyala, Water Buck etc.